Might be a rooky question but.......

[Mr Rogers]

Could someone post correct proceedures for bleeding a clutch. I think I might have some air in my line from the original clutch, lsd, flywheel an I just want to see what is the "Right" way to do this. I have been noticing a inconsistancy with my clutch ingagement point so I figured the first place to start is with the fluid. Thanks guys.

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98 GS-scR w/ 11psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, Endyn Kamikazi header, Godspeed testpipe, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S Ultra safeguard v1, RC 370's, Cartech FMU, Vortech regulator, Apex-i
V-AFC, H&R sports and KYB AGX's,ITR LSD, JR flywheel, Clutch Specialties stage 4, MSD digital 6 & HVC coil, Endyn stepper pulley, NX nitrous and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down.
Best et ==>13.6 @ 103mph w/ 2.3 60ft on Nitto drag radials @ 8psi of boost

[Holden]

If you have a vacuum pump like the Mighty Vac that's made for, it's easy.

1st) Suck all the cruddy fluid out of the resevoir. This will save pulling all the sediment at the bottom from going through the whole system. Refill the resevoir to the brim with clean fluid.

2nd) Attach the hose of the vac pump to the bleeder nipple and loosen the nut.

3rd) Pump the fluid through till it runs clear. Most vacuum pumps have clear hoses so you can see. Keep refilling the resevoir so it never gets low.

4th) Close it up.

If you don't have a pump, someone else needs to answer.

I've felt definite improvements from clutch bleeding and do it every 10K miles or so. You don't even need to use super brake fluid ($$$). It's not so hot so any old DOT 3 will do.

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Greg Holden
96 GSR, JSRC @10psi, All the Goodies!
Best 1/4 ==> 13.556 @ 105.29mph
My JRSC Install Site

[klintman]

its better to have a vac pump , but not required . if you have a pump do it like holden says , but in between squezees on the vac pump depress the clutch pedal(at least once or twice)to free up any air traped around the master cylinder . if you dont have a pump(you will need 2 people) use the pedal gently to work the fluid through . when it comes out clear have the extra hand tighten the relief nipple as light pressure is applied to the pedal (this is important as not to suck in air before the nipple is closed) . also do not let the fluid in the resivoir fall below where the pressure lines pick up , if air is sucked in there you will have to run about a quart & a 1/2 of fluid through just to bleed it out . when your done drive verrry verry slow and step on the brakes repeatedly hard to test them .

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99' GSR / JRSC @ 6psi
-JR MAP & BTC
-Walbro 342
-Comptech exhaust & intake/icebox
-Comptech/Koni coilovers
-Mugen 22mm rear sway bar

[Mr Rogers]

Thanks a ton guys, now to get one of my buddies to help a brotha out.

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98 GS-scR w/ 11psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, Endyn Kamikazi header, Godspeed testpipe, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S Ultra safeguard v1, RC 370's, Cartech FMU, Vortech regulator, Apex-i
V-AFC, H&R sports and KYB AGX's,ITR LSD, JR flywheel, Clutch Specialties stage 4, MSD digital 6 & HVC coil, Endyn stepper pulley, NX nitrous and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down.
Best et ==>13.6 @ 103mph w/ 2.3 60ft on Nitto drag radials @ 8psi of boost

[JRCivic]

Javin,

If you have a vaccuum pump... do the procedure as Greg has stated above. If not, have someone sit in the car... gently depress the clutch while you crack the bleeder screw. Once the pedal hits the floor, close the bleeder screw BEFORE your partner in the car allows the pedal to move. Repeat this procedure until a solid stream of fluid comes out of the bleeder screw... if there are air bubbles, then do it again.
Lastly... DO NOT ADJUST THE PEDAL ADJUSTMENT NUTS INSIDE THE CAR !!! This does not do anything to change the feel of the clutch hydraulics... all it does is move the pedal height... and adversely, cause PRELOAD and damage to your clutch. If you are totally ANAL and want to adjust the pedal height so that it better matches the other two... adjust this first and then RE-BLEED the clutch master/slave system.

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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph